Before

After

Current

• Remove old body
• Remove old fuel system
  • Tank
  • Lines
• Remove brake lines
• Remove engine
• Clean frame
• Wash frame
• Replace front U joints
• Repair frame
  • Body Mounts
  • Left & Right Rear Frame Members
  • Gas Tank Cross Member
  • Secondary Cross Member
  • Driver Side frame by transmission
  • Rider Side front by front end
• Sandblast frame
• Rustproof frame
• Reinstall front end axel and hardware
• Reinstall rear axel
• Reinstall front and rear bumpers
• New brake lines
• New gas tank
• New fuel lines
• Reinstall engine
• Body
  • Fix body dents
  • Paint body
  • Install body
  • Install Fenders
  • Install Grill
  • Install Windshield
  • Install Tailgate
• Interior
  • Break/clutch pedals
  • Dashboard
  • Steering wheel
  • Seats
  • Center console
  • Rollbar
  • Canvas Top
• Electrical system
• Repair Wreck Damage
  • Straighten Frame
  • Replace Leaf Springs
  • Replace front shocks
  • Straighten tie rod
  • Straighten & Paint Front Fender
  • Replace side marker light
  • Get Comprehensive Insurance Coverage
• Winter 2004 Upgrade
  • Two Barrel Carb
  • Herculiner on floor
  • Paint Roll Bar
  • Replace starter
  • Replace front u-joints
  • Reorient air compressor
• Winter 2005 Upgrade
  • Two new axels w/ 3.4 gears
• Spring 2006 Upgrade
  • New (old) engine!
• Spring 2008 Upgrade
  • Roll Cage!

I've ordered and received both my rubber body mounts and a quart of POR 15. So I promptly went out and tried to put one of the body mounts in the newly installed mounts. The 1 1/4" hole is too small! Arrggghhh... Just a 1/16" more would have done. Oh well. Where's that little grinding wheel attachment for the drill...
[Add comments?]

Yes! Welding has happened! My friend's father came by on Tuesday and weleded on both of the frame repair plates, one of the cross bars and tack welded on all the body mounts. The only other thing to do is weld on the reinforcing plates on the rear ends of both frame rails.

Then after I get the body mounts from 4wd Hardware I'm going to sit the new body down on the frame and see if everything is in the right place. Then the body comes back off and my welder comes back and puts the body mounts down for good. Then it's a trip to the sand blaster and a coat of POR 15.
[Add comments?]

Monday, April 23, 2001

Contrary to popular belief I haven't given up on the project. I've just been waiting to coordinate getting my friend's father up here to weld on the frame patches. And he's going to be here tomorrow! We'll be welding on the frame repair patches first. Then he is going to tack weld on the body mounts and call it a day. Then me and several of my friends are going to set the body down on the frame and make sure everything lines up correctly. Then the body comes off, my welder friend comes back and a little while later the welding is all done! Then it's off to the sand blaster's place!
[Add comments?]

Monday, April 09, 2001

Here's my thoughts on the two. The "U" shaped pieces will be stronger but a)will be harder to place correctly and b)will create a 1/2" space between themselves and the old plates where water and mud will be able to get up into and rust it out. Whereas the flat pieces rely on the original mounts for strength (they all seem pretty sturdy to me) and will minimize the positioning hassles an water/mud gap. At the moment, I'm leaning toward the flat plates, unless someone comes along and gives me a better reason. Also, I'm going to wait till my welding friend comes over and hear what he thinks of them.
[Add comments?]

And finally the body mounts. These are going to all require varying amounts of adjusting. Since they are pretty critical in their placement I have to take my time on these. But I have a small dilemma to resolve first. Should I use the "U" shaped pieces or just the flat cap pieces?
[Add comments?]

These are the two reinforcing plates for the rust hole on the left side middle and front right. The second one is actually two pieces that will have to be welded together when we attach it. It had to be two because the metal break that was used to bend them wouldn't work in that close of quarters.
[Add comments?]

The plates to reinforce the rear frame members were simple flat pieces and they all seem to be right on. But the will take a little jockeying around to get them in the right place and firmly attached.

[Add comments?]

Guess we'll start with the largest parts first. The first picture is the front crossmember that was completely missing. It popped right into place and looks great. Just needs welded in. Placement on this one wasn't critical. The next two are of the rear cross member. This one fulfills several different roles so it has to be in there exactly right. It has two body mount holes that have to be accurate to about 1/4". It also serves as a support structure for the gas tank. It took just a bit of tweeking to get it to pop into place. Other than that, it's good to go too.

[Add comments?]

The frame parts are here! The frame parts are here!

Thanks to a new friend Vince, I have hunks of 1/8" plate steel laser cut to exactly what I drew out in a CAD package a few weeks ago. Drop me a e-mail message if you would like Vince to make some frame repair parts (or anything cut out of plate steel or stainless steel) for you. He fabricated all my parts for a very reasonable cost and I'm sure he can do the same for you.
[Add comments?]

Tuesday, April 03, 2001

Doh! I just noticed that 4WD Hardware has a "Spindle Nut Socket" (part #A692N) for $9.99. Oh well, live and learn.
[1 comment]